Page 1 Page 2 Page 3 Page 4 Page 5 Page 6 Page 7 Page 8 Page 9 Page 10 Page 11 Page 12 Page 13 Page 14 Page 15 Page 16 Page 17 Page 18 Page 19 Page 20 Page 21 Page 22 Page 23 Page 24 Page 25 Page 26 Page 27 Page 28 Page 29 Page 30 Page 31 Page 32 Page 33 Page 34���.������������.��� J��� 2016 33 its called flatlining. As the name implies, it’s a form of lining, but not like the lining in a dress or a blazer. This technique involves stitching two or more layers of fabric together in the seam allowance and then treating them as one piece. You would cut out the pieces of the garment you wish to flatline, and then use the same pattern pieces to cut out another set. You might use the same fabric, or an even heavier fabric depending on how much stiffness you desire. Then, on each piece, line them up perfectly and pin all the way around on every edge. Pin carefully, so that there is no excess fabric in the middle and the two layers are completely flat. Then, sew the layers together inside the seam allowance. You should stitch along half the total of your seam allowance (i.e. if the seam allowance is 1/2", sew the pieces together at a 1/4".) Start by sewing any edges parallel with the warp, then the crossgrain and curved edges. This prevents the pieces from stretching as you sew. Flatlining can be used in addition to a regular lining or on its own; either way, it is incredibly useful. CLIPPING AND NOTCHING If you've ever sewn a garment that has a lot of curvy seams, such as a bust- ier, you may have encountered a problem when trying to iron those seams. There's a simply way to flatten and smooth out the seam. Simply clip or notch the seam allowance in curved areas to help your garment behave. See the diagram for details. On a curved section of a seam, the seam allowance may be bigger or smaller than the seam itself and may bunch up or be forced to stretch when flipped to the right side. Clipping and notching alleviates tension or removes excess very efficiently. UNDERSTITCHING Let's say you're going to sew a garment with a lining. When you sew the edges of the top fabric and the lining fabric together its very difficult to iron and the lining seems to poke out. For this problem, you can use a technique called un- derstitching. With the fabric right side up, push the seam allowance towards the lining and stitch it down to the lining 1/8" away from the seam. This will prevent the lining from being visible and makes ironing significantly easier. IRONING Lastly, the greatest advice I can give is to iron iron IRON. An unpressed seam is like a glaring blemish on a cosplay. You may have to press your seams a few times to get them nice and flat, but it is completely worth it. One of my teachers once told me, "half of sewing is ironing," and I've never forgotten it. Keep it in mind as you work on your next cosplay. I hope that you find sewing a little easier and see better results after employing these techniques. Feel free to contact me via Facebook or Instagram under Azayaka Cosplay with questions. Thank you for reading! Hi guys, I'm Azayaka (Japanese for 'vivid,' or 'brilliant') Cosplay. I graduated from FIDM with a degree in Fashion and Theater Costume in 2011 and after a brief stint of doing commission and freelance work, have started making my own cosplays. Please visit me at any of the pages provided in the links below, but note that I primarily upload to Facebook. I upload fashion, art, and karaoke in addition to cosplay, as well as things that humor me. I'd love to hear from you and thank you for reading my article! To learn more about Azayaka, check her out online at: and